<human>: Can you condense the text into three sentences or less?

I think I have a few, but the one that sticks out the most was on a surfing trip. I was surfing and to my dismay, the waves rapidly grew in size well beyond what my expertise could handle. 

In an attempt to get to safer waters, I tried to paddle out past the waves which meant I first had to paddle through them. I was on a rather large board and in an effort to get through the waves crashing on me, I would roll my board to allow the wave to crash over me. The move is pretty easy, but on one rather large wave, I didn't roll quick enough and a good portion of the board was sent raging forward. My natural reaction was to hold onto the board as it was torn into the wave...the result was my shoulder being ripped out of the socket. 

As I came above water I realized my shoulder was out thus making it nearly impossible to swim. Floating in the water, there was no pull for my shoulder to be suctioned backed into the socket, so my shoulder remained dislocated and my arm floating uselessly as the massive waves were crashing on me. 

Finally, I was able to drag myself onto my board and basically be knocked into the shore, having to pull myself on my board a few more times...again shoulder dislocated.

Looking back, I think my survival mode kicked in and I found a way to live, but it certainly could have been my demise.
<bot>: was surfing, shoulder ripped out of socket, was under water unable to swim, didn't think of it at the time...but definitely could have died that day.