no one person invented the little black dress. true, in 1926 coco chanel designed one that vogue described as a <u+201c>ford<u+201d> for its all-around usefulness, and ever since it<u+2019>s been seen as the prototype. because chanel<u+2019>s streamlining instincts dovetailed with the lbd<u+2019>s pared-down modernity, she and the dress have become conflated. but the lbd is actually a product of popular demand<u+2014>as women<u+2019>s lives got busier and their social status depended less on dressing to display their husband<u+2019>s wealth, its chic simplicity filled a need. despite the seismic social changes that have occurred since the lbd arrived, it remains as relevant today as when crist<u+00f3>bal balenciaga and christian dior were determining its dna. london designer roland mouret links its enduring appeal to its universal ability to flatter. <u+201c>there is something about a fitted black dress that is tantalizing, that cannot be replicated in a colorful dress,<u+201d> said mr. mouret. timothy lloyd pope, an adviser to private clients on their wardrobes via his new york firm tlp consulting, believes the lbd<u+2019>s innate restraint is its hallmark. <u+201c>the little black dress is a projection of elegance,<u+201d> he said. <u+201c>it shows that one respects what is happening.<u+201d> as an example, he pointed to melania trump wearing an lbd <u+201c>instead of a white off-the-shoulder jumpsuit<u+201d> for a recent visit to the white house. sarah jessica parker, whose fashion choices have been tracked since her <u+201c>sex and the city<u+201d> days, believes so strongly in the little black dress that she recently launched a collection called sjp lbd at bloomingdale<u+2019>s. describing how the line<u+2019>s first dress can be worn with everything from a flannel shirt to strappy sandals, she said, <u+201c>we really wanted to make the point that this is for all people at all times of the day. that<u+2019>s the job of the little black dress.<u+201d> its ease can be deceptive. given the expectations that surround it and the narrow parameters that define it, the lbd can wrack designers<u+2019> nerves. <u+201c>i never have problems with a gown,<u+201d> confessed new york designer brandon maxwell, who has become known for his lbds. <u+201c>but a little black dress is like a math problem that you get past and then you feel great.<u+201d> dark forces | the greek goddesses of vengeance, the furies, always wore black dresses. coco cuff | chanel<u+2019>s little black dress of 1926 was not entirely black<u+2014>it had white zigzag cuffs. tart retort | legend has it that when a black-clad coco chanel was asked by paul poiret for whom she was in mourning, her reply to the designer she considered a has-been was an icy, <u+201c>for you, monsieur.<u+201d> la vie en noir | a little black dress was edith piaf<u+2019>s signature look. she chose ones with long sleeves to hide the scars from three serious car crashes. needle-to-know basis | in every one of his collections, crist<u+00f3>bal balenciaga included one black dress that he personally made entirely by hand. slip service | during a 1956 press conference announcing the marilyn monroe film <u+201c>the prince and the showgirl,<u+201d> the strap on monroe<u+2019>s slinky lbd gave way, causing such a sensation that the incident that was written into the script. rule change | a black dress was once considered inappropriate to wear before lunch: in 1964, the fashion etiquette expert genevi<u+00e8>ve antoine-dariaux wrote, <u+201c>the truly chic woman never wears black before noon.<u+201d> en vogue | the black jersey dress that 16-year-old penelope tree wore to truman capote<u+2019>s black and white ball in 1966 launched her modeling career. the next morning, richard avedon told diana vreeland that tree belonged in vogue. royal lore | when lady diana spencer wore a tight, strapless black dress for her first post-engagement public appearance with prince charles in 1981, the british tabloids responded with headlines about her cleavage. brit girl | elizabeth hurley was a virtual unknown until she turned up at the <u+201c>four weddings and a funeral<u+201d> premiere in gianni versace<u+2019>s black safety pin dress. the galaxy of lbds is infinite, so don<u+2019>t settle for anything less than your kindred-spirit design constraints can provide fertile ground for creativity. such is the case with the lbd, which, within its dual parameters of a dark hue and a hem that lands anywhere between the top of the thigh and mid-calf, comes in an impressive chocolate-box variety. (think three levels, no repeats.) that means that your soul mate in frock form does exist. if you<u+2019>re on the hunt for one, first go to the designers you already wear. (even if they<u+2019>re not known for their lbds, trust us, they<u+2019>ll have at least one or two versions of this essential in stores.) want something nunnish yet romantic? try valentino<u+2019>s high-necked, wool-and-lace mini dress. something with gamine nonchalance? look at isabel marant<u+2019>s one-shoulder, ruched taffeta number. something with rocker-chick edge? consider saint laurent<u+2019>s sequined, 1980s-inspired frock. you get the idea. the constraints of the lbd can give you license to experiment, particularly if your style skews discreet. black tones everything down, including expressive silhouettes (ruffles, voluminous sleeves) and textures (pleating, lace, sequins). so why not have a little fun? of course, if you truly need a chic foot-soldier dress that can march you straight from work to a night out, forgo the special effects of sequins and seek out a look at the plainer end of the lbd spectrum. one of the greatest benefits of the little black dress is its versatility. for the office, you<u+2019>ll need a simple base, something unembellished that doesn<u+2019>t reveal too much skin. for daytime, wear it with flats or low heels. come evening, all you<u+2019>ll need is a pair of heels, a slash of lipstick and one good piece of jewelry. by which we mean something you didn<u+2019>t make yourself at the last minute out of staples. creativity only counts for so much. to get at the essence of what it<u+2019>s like to be a murky, abbreviated frock, we asked one. its answers went on at some length. q. do you ever feel that you are a victim of sizeism? a. i do. people think that just because i<u+2019>m little, i don<u+2019>t have much to contribute to this planet. they discount all my skills: the bestowing of pizazz, for instance. q. perhaps if you could, say, contribute something more concrete, such as teaching english as a second language... a. pizazz is the universal language. q. actually, that<u+2019>s love. a. let<u+2019>s not quarrel. confrontation is not chic. q. ok, next question: apart from scenes co-starring you, what is your favorite part of <u+201c>breakfast at tiffany<u+2019>s<u+201d>? a. the scene where holly golightly throws the cat out of the taxi in the rain. nice cat, but its stupid orange hair kept getting all over me. i<u+2019>m supposed to be a rich pure black, not half-tabby-half-black. q. what else frustrates you? a. the way little black hot-pants think they<u+2019>re sexier than me...the arrogant swagger of maxi-coats...a poorly crafted toast at cocktail hour. q. what constitutes a good toast in your opinion? a. something short and sweet like, <u+201c>here<u+2019>s to the men who love us terribly. may they soon improve.<u+201d> <u+2014>dale hrabi
the little black dress: an obsessive, comprehensive guide - wsj
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